Dia de los Muertos

Everyone knows about Dia de los Muertos. It's a holiday mix of catholic and pre-hispanic culture, that celebrates and remembers the deceased. On this colorful and highly-celebrated day there are many traditions carried out, which can range from cooking a meal for the deceased and lighting candles around a photo altar; to going to their grave site, cleaning the tomb, applying fresh flowers and wreaths and fluffing the dirt around the grave. These traditions have a huge significance here in México, and the people believe the rituals help the deceased on their journey on the other side. The families spend hours working on the altars, many of them considered true works of art; that reflect the work, dedication and creativity of the person.

While this holiday isn't short of festivity, the focus is truly on celebrating the deceased. I couldn't help but think of the way we tend to exploit Christmas in the states, with the mega marketing of toys, Santa and meaningless gifts; or the way that Easter has become more about fake plastic toys from China and junk candy than the resurrection of jesus cristo. (Obviously, there are exceptions to this exploitation, and people that really do focus on the real meaning.)

What I witnessed on Dia de los Muertos, was a true dedication to family, to tradition. Families spend hours, all day and night with the deceased. I witnessed people meticulously cleaning the tombs, fluffing the earth around their grave, talking to them, praying for them, catching up with them, sharing stories. It was such a beautiful gesture with nothing in return for themselves. No prizes are given out for doing so. It's about appreciating and celebrating a loved one who is no longer with us. And I couldn't help but be moved by it.

This year, on the Day of the Dead, a group of us were invited by Kent and Camelo to go to the outskirts of Guanajuato to visit some really rural towns and graveyards. Katie and I couldn't pass up the opportunity. We piled into two car loads (one was a plush Chrysler New Yorker) and headed out of town.We stopped at one of the oldest grave sites in the area first.



From the grave site, there was a great view of a very old church.Our destination, about an hour and a half away, was a teeny tiny town called Sangre de Cristo, or blood of Christ. I joked that if I didn't spontaneously combust into flames, it would probably be a good day.The view from Sangre de Cristo was increíble, and Kent, a walking encyclopedia, told us that from where we were standing you could see the giant monument to Cristo Rey (Christ the King.) The monument itself stands 20 meters from head to foot and is in the 'cerro del Cubilete', which is considered the geographic center of Mexico. Wow.

Monica, upon arrival.Katie, looking naturally gorgeous.We walked up to a colorful variety of vendors selling everything from roasted almonds and rotisserie chicken, to framed posters of la virgen herself. The smells were incredible, and I was starving so Kent recommended this little table stand with an adorable man and woman grilling. They served plates of enchiladas (3) covered in potatoes and carrots, queso fresco and a salsa verde. Because I'm an oinker, I ordered two of these plates, plus two fried potatoes, and my grand total was about $1.20USWe were the only white people there. Everyone was staring. These Mexican boys just sat there and watched us eat like we were aliens, so I started taking their photos – to their mild amusement.Due to the nature of the festival, and the fact that it's very much out of respect for the dead, I didn't feel quite comfortable taking a crap load of photos. But I did get a few. Our friend Chris, who is in the Peace Corps, let these little girls play with his digital camera. It was quite adorable, and we realized later the shots they took had great composition. ( They melted mi corazon. If I would have had a point-and-shoot camera in my pocket, there's a good chance I would have given it away that day.)

This is my favorite shot of the day, although Todd thinks the little boy is playing with himself.
Half of our group decided to hike down to these white sand dunes and play around for a bit. Kent, Camilla, Monica and I stayed stayed above, split a cerveza, and watched to sun go down over the mountains.


I thought the sunset couldn't get any more gorgeous, but I was wrong. It faded into this royal blue with an amazing orange-pink horizon line. Que bonita.
Right before we left I took this shot; the camera sitting on the hood of the car.All in all, a wonderful day with good friends, great food an amazing view into rural Mexico and traditions.